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Be warned, clearances will be out once you lap your valves in. Did mine & it wouldn’t start after due to low compression. Had to replace all 20 shims. Obvious when you think about it but didn’t anticipate that one.
Wow that looks like ET’s face in the black tape in your left hand! lol
Have you got a Clymer manual for the bike? Something not right about that set up to me. Going on the 1st picture it looks like you only have 1 live from the battery to the starter motor relay. There should be another live from the + battery terminal that goes to the main fuse in the 2nd picture that is for (I think) the alternator or generator if you’re American. Where is that grey wire coming from & what is inside the ET pouch in your left hand? Not exactly clear from the pictures.Also I would want to know the engine wasn’t seized before expecting the starter motor to deal with it. Select 4th-5th gear & see if you can hear the pistons moving up & down when you try to push the bike forwards. If the back wheel is locked solid then there is no point asking the starter motor to try tuning the engine over.
What’s with the long grey wire in your above picture?The clicking you refer to sounds like the fuel pump doing its job. It clicks until the system is up to pressure then stops until the engine is running so I wouldn’t worry there. I would guess you have flattened your new battery now so a good charge should see you back to when you started out with dash lights on.
Carbs off & thoroughly cleaned is a must if it’s been stood for any length of time over 6 months. I would suggest new plugs but see how you get on removing & cleaning out the carbs & jets first.Any time mate. You can also email me if it helps? Are you sure the engine is a good one? Would hate for you to waste loads of time making it fit if it doesn’t even work. Do you have everything needed for it to run, carbs, ecu, exhaust, radiator, loom etc?
Where in the UK are you?1FN denotes 85-87 model. Clymer manual has wiring diagrams for all models as I recall so you should be okay regardless of which engine you have. I can’t say for definite but wouldn’t have thought there were many or even any differences between the FZR750 engine & the FZ one other than the fact yours is an early model so should have 2 crank sensor (one either side of engine casings) & later 2MG engine only had 1.
Looks like an FZ lump from those pictures. What advice do you need?
Does it do this every time you start the bike? If it’s been laid up for a while without being started regularly then I would try some fresh fuel. If it still has erratic idle then I would check for air leaks by spraying WD40 or similar around the air box rubbers & listen for a change in idle speed. If it still plays up I would be tempted to strip the carbs & clean all the jets.
Mike if you are referring to the pre-exup FZR 1000 Genesis then the yokes are a straight bolt in job with no stem swapping to be done. I have them fitted to my FZ. You are not limited to forks from the same bike. I have FZR600 forks fitted to mine but any 41mm forks that are long enough should do.
I believe there was a clutch mechanism fitted to the early race bikes which some people have copied. It replaces the hydraulic slave cylinder but is expensive to have machined from scratch.Have you checked the HT wires at the plug cap end? They corrode & come loose with age. I was able to unscrew all 4 of my caps, chop out the corrosion & screw the caps back on. Threads in the caps can be corroded too. Don’t think they will be failing at the coil end as they are sealed but if the seal has broke down you can possibly do the same thing?
Also check the 2 wires & plug that go to the offending coil.Hello Arch & all. Didn’t realise I would need to re-register on here. Done now.
Just started work on my FZ again after a long lay up. Built a garage for it last year so hope to post a few pictures in the next week or 2 when it looks a bit more like a bike.Watch this space.