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how is the build coming?

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sucks man , I like to tinker with stuff before I toss it out some times I get lucky sometimes it just wont work no matter what.. just life..

and the pump issue I had was also the switch that was acting up for the reserve , had to spray wd40 in the switch and work it back and fourth now its all good

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hope i’m not to late, I just had a problem with my pump not pumping, go figure!.. looked around the net then decided to take apart the pump.. a wire popped off (possibly due to age) but I then repaired it and now she is pumping again.. take a look at the picture to help you this is how I fixed it.

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hey I just looked on eBay and saw one.. anyway I was trying to look around for you and found this out

quote:
The Fuel Pump – Is a self regulating/self priming electric pump as used on many motorcycles and small cars. The fuel pressure is very low and replacing the pump with another type is usually difficult, as the pressure is so small. The pump automatically stops running when the pressure in the downstream line to the carbs reaches a set level. IT does this via a central plunger through the middle of the pump and that breaks a contact on the end of the pump. Its vital that these contacts are kept clean and the wires are attached (they have a habit of breaking off and the contacts tend to burn up). The pump is run from the fuel controller via 2 wire plug. The contacts can be got at be removing the small crosshead screw from the rubber
boot and pulling back the boot.
src: http://www.fz750.net/tips/fuel_controller.htm

I would try pulling it apart and see whats up with it.. or experiment .. who knows maybe I might be doing this soon too!

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picture of crank shaft out of engine

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picture of timing “T”

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Ok I just want to post this , I almost made a big mistake of looking in the wrong hole! Above is not a timing mark.. I had to retime again after having it all together .. I’m just thankfull that I didn’t fire up the engine.. There is a T mark! Just gotta find the smaller window port on the left

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ok Im 99% sure it is in the right spot the 1# cyl is at the top.. am I right or is it a lil bit after?

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hey and thanks , you will need the manual http://anonym.to/?http://depositfiles.com/files/pvwc5luvr or buy one… also yes you need to take it apart from the head to the bottom because of the bolts that are hidden under the head just to split the case! its a big job but I have no experience with bikes and It seems not to difficult.. just study the book.

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Well if its any help the Clymer manual doesn’t show any difference in the engine even the carbs appear to be the same , however the fzX700 has different carbs and different connections but the engine is the same.

and what is a 86 fz 0?… do you mean 1000 or a 750 because im only talking about the 750.

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I would suggest doing it with a dremal and a hammer with a chisel to finalize the break in the broken bearing and the collar to be more precise but I just used a grinder with a grinding disk and went a little bit at a time … Also if you do it In a vice it would be much better.

If you don’t have a heat gun you could use a hot plate I think it was around 120 f when it expanded to fit the shaft

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here is a pic , and the engine looks in really good shape inside …remeber its been off the road 14 years and I don’t see any record of bought bearings in the past just the one that my dad purchased… I even have the original sale receipt of the bike! $5386.90 in 1986

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have you ever considered fibre glassing?.. I never used this stuff before but I went to canadian tire and bought a boat repair kit and used that to make an Ipad holder for my truck … it turned out really good and I started with a cardboard(cereal box) design and glassed over it… used some tiger hair bondo for marine work( which is waterproof not like regular filler) just to fill in small imperfections… I must say for the first time with this stuff it wasn’t hard at all and cheap $30 for the kit.. this should fix your issue no problem I would suggest gluing it with super glue back together then glassing the underside that wont show for strength and filling the top side with some plastic filler then a really fine sandpaper to smooth it out and finish it with some paint it will be as good as new.

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makes me wonder if I should rip apart my bike to check the frame.. great posts thanks for this!

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So from my od it is 399881 km and it was 1998 when it was last on the road if that helps .. I seen on eBay they have em for sale so I know I can get them I just have a lot of engine parts now and figured maybe someone was looking for an expensive peice and I could save em some cash by doing a trade ..I can’t wait to ride this thing!

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